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travel / travel magazine / sep09

OneCity

THREE VENUES
Halifax
By Deborah Mensah-Bonsu with photography by Dan Doucette

1. FAMILY: Sail back in time
On the morning of December 6, 1917, railway dispatcher Vincent Coleman looked out the window of his office over the waters of Halifax Harbour and began transmitting an urgent telegraph message. Two ships had collided, and the Mont-Blanc — a French vessel full of explosives — was on fire. Just before 9:05 a.m., Coleman sent his last warning to an incoming train. The explosion that followed obliterated entire sections of the city, destroying 1,630 homes and killing more than 1,900 people. Someone eventually found Coleman’s telegraph key in the wreckage and today it’s on display at Halifax’s Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, along with Coleman’s wallet and pocket watch. In keeping with the nautical disaster theme, the museum also features a deck chair and pair of children’s shoes recovered from the RMS Titanic. But it’s not all doom and gloom: kids can step aboard the 1913 CSS Acadia, or meet characters from the Theodore Tugboat series. The museum is on Halifax’s waterfront, which is lined with shops and restaurants. Family admission is $22.50 from May to October and $11 the rest of the year.
museum.gov.ns.ca/mma



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2. BUSINESS: Lights, camera, AFF!
Tired of watching another lame remake (I’m looking at you, Incredible Hulk) or sequel (ahem, Indiana Jones)? Try something original and head to the Atlantic Film Festival, where you can lose yourself in innovative and offbeat silver screenings. Take in the scene from the balcony at the Oxford Theatre, a vintage, single-screen movie house with florid mouldings and sculpted arches. Star guests in previous years included filmmaker Michael Moore and Canadian director Atom Egoyan, as well as actresses Olympia Dukakis and Halifax-born Ellen Page. Many directors and stars attend screenings and stick around afterward for Q&As with the audience. When not in the theatre, head downtown for VIP galas and concerts at one of the the city’s largest annual parties. The festival runs from September 17 to 26. Ticket prices for screenings range from $10 to $15; galas and parties cost between $25 and $50.
www.atlanticfilm.com

3. ADVENTURE: Forget all your troubles — leave downtown
One of the best things about a small city is that it’s easy to escape the noise and bustle. Depart downtown Halifax and in half an hour you can be windsurfing or kite-boarding at Stoney Beach, or white-water rafting on the Shubenacadie River. Head west and hike at Polly Cove or kayak along the coastal islands of St. Margaret’s Bay, where white cliffs painted with lush green shrubbery rise out of calm waters. The bay opens onto the Atlantic, so watch for porpoises, seals and whales. Don’t have the equipment or the know-how? Many local tour operators offer guided excursions. Sea Sun Kayak offers courses and outings for all ages, for instance, and Great E.A.R.T.H Expeditions allows you to customize tours, which range between a couple of hours and several days.
www.kannonbeach.

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