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ACCOMMODATION
Quebec’s anti-resort

Le Massif has long been a secret gem of skiing in Eastern Canada. Situated 770 metres above a sweeping expanse of the St. Lawrence River — the biggest vertical drop east of the Rockies — Quebec’s highest mountain is a mecca for snow lovers.

Dominating the rolling hills of Quebec’s Charlevoix region and just an hour from the historic sites of Vieux-Québec, Le Massif’s white slopes (average annual snowfall is an incredible six metres) are now going green as part of a quirky, bold expansion that owner Daniel Gauthier, one of the founders of Cirque du Soleil, dubs an “anti-resort.”

Gauthier’s project eschews condos around the mountain, a too common feature of many resorts, opting instead for tree houses, tipis, yurts, “bridge-units” (glass-floored abodes suspended in the sky) and “tide-units” (built on stilts in the river). A low-key, eco-friendly 150-room hotel and cultural hub in the nearby 350-year-old fishing village of Baie-Saint-Paul will be linked to the mountain via a 20-kilometre rail shuttle hugging the St. Lawrence.

The project, scheduled to open in 2010, is inspired by the area’s agricultural roots and rugged beauty (unesco has designated the Charlevoix a World Biosphere Reserve). A garden will supply produce to the mountain’s newly refurbished Le Mer & Monts Restaurant. Foodies will also enjoy the yearround farmers’ market Gauthier plans to open in Baie-Saint-Paul, while visitors will have easier, greener access with a 137-kilometre tourist railway that will run between Québec and the Charlevoix.

“It’s a magical place,” says Le Massif’s Diane Laberge, who hopes the expansion will kick-start four-season eco-oriented tourism in the region. “We’re looking forward to sharing the beauty with many visitors.”

— Alex Roslin

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FESTIVALS
Dynamic duos

MOST PEOPLE THINK OF CANADIAN icewine as a lovely after-dinner drink, perhaps paired with a fruit flan or crème brûlée. But matching this liquid gold with simple treats, even candy, can be more fun than a snowball fight — and is often even more delicious than drinking the wine on its own. Icewine has a terrific balance of natural sweetness and vibrant acidity, making it a versatile partner for a variety of desserts.

Here are 10 inspired icewine-and-food combinations:

  1. Peller Estates Riesling Icewine (Niagara) and fried bananas
  2. Mission Hill Family Estate Riesling Icewine (Okanagan) and mango sorbet
  3. Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine (Niagara) and Werther’s Original Hard Candies
  4. Paradise Ranch Chardonnay Icewine (Okanagan) and vanilla ice cream with toasted almonds
  5. Hillebrand Trius Vidal Icewine (Niagara) and raisin sticky buns
  6. Domaine Pinnacle Ice Apple Wine (Quebec) and apple cobbler
  7. Summerhill Pyramid Winery Riesling Icewine (Okanagan) and waffles with maple syrup
  8. Jost Vineyards Vidal Icewine (Nova Scotia) and cotton candy
  9. Reif Estate Winery Vidal Icewine (Niagara) and ginger cookies
  10. Inniskillin Riesling Icewine (Niagara) and lime Jell-O

To really please your palate, consider attending one of the icewine festivals held each year in both Ontario and British Columbia. At Sun Peaks Resort in British Columbia, Icewine Festival events include a showcase of the resort chefs’ best dishes alongside Okanagan wines, seminars pairing icewine with cheese and with chocolate and a progressive wine tasting that allows guests to walk around the postcard-quaint village and sample wines from more than 20 wineries. You can also enjoy skiing, snowshoeing and snowboarding. Jan. 13-18. (800) 807-3257; www.thewinefestivals.com

In Ontario, the Niagara Icewine Festival offers more than 50 events, including gourmet dinners, carriage rides along the region’s wine trails and icewine tastings from 20 producers served from behind an enormous outdoor ice bar carved with Canadian winter scenes. Jan. 16-25, (905) 688-0212; www.niagaraicewinefestival.com

— Natalie MacLean





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