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travel / travel magazine / may10

May 2010 issue

FEATURE: Sea Kayaking in Nova Scotia

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Don’t catch a wave (page 3)
Like a fish out of water, a veteran surfer picks up a paddle and ventures onto Nova Scotia’s kayak coast
By Lesley Choyce with photography by Dan Doucette

The final leg is arduous work, paddling against incoming chop and a full-faced sea wind. I have one aching wrist and I’m breathing hard, but perseverance pays off and eventually we are back to where we began. As we tuck into the shoreline, dark clouds move in from the sea and my brain begins to slip back to charting my list of landlubber responsibilities.



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As I help Costanzo load the kayaks onto the roof racks, I’m already thinking of other inlets, other summer days. I’ve enjoyed the meditative quality of sea kayaking, but I miss the adrenalin rush of catching a head-high Atlantic wave on my surfboard. But I imagine that with a little more skill and confidence, I could lash a surfboard onto the deck of a sea kayak — or just tow it behind — and explore ever-more-remote headlands, beaches and point breaks where no one has ever surfed before. It could be the perfect combination, the perfect solution to avoiding the ever-more-crowded popular surf spots here or anywhere else.

Nove Scotia writer Lesley Choyce lives in a 200-year-old farmhouse on Lawrencetown Beach overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Photographer Dan Doucette is based in Lower Sackville, N.S.


PADDLERS’ DELIGHT

Getting there
To reach Chezzetcook Inlet from downtown Halifax and Dartmouth, travel east on Route 207, a scenic drive that hugs the coastline.

Staying there
For hotels in Halifax, go to www.canadianhotelguide.com/ca/Nova_Scotiahotels. For a furnished cottage overlooking Chezzetcook Inlet, go to www.homeaway.com/search/keywords:halifax.

Playing there
Commercial kayak outfitters and tour guides in the Halifax region include Capt. Canoe in Seaforth, Sea Sun Kayak in Tantallon and NovaShores Adventures in East Dover.

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