|
The small steamer tossed and pitched wildly as
it plowed across Labrador's Lake Melville.
On board, a soft-spoken nurse from Ontario
named Mina Hubbard sat alone in her cramped berth
awaiting the start of her greatest journey. She had left
Halifax on June 16, 1905, and was now on her final
approach to the North West River Post.
Landing on June 25, Mina was greeted with a
wilderness feast of wild goose, plum pudding and hot
coffee. "After the voyage from Halifax," she wrote in
her memoir A Woman's Way Through Unknown
Labrador, "it seemed good to rest a little with the
firm earth underfoot and where the walls of one's
habitation were still." The few-day stopover offered
little rest, however, as Mina assembled a crew of four
guides and hundreds of pounds of food, supplies and
gear, including two canvas-covered canoes. She was
heading into the unexplored Labrador interior — the
same wilderness that had claimed the life of her
husband Leonidas two years earlier.
Rare was the woman explorer in 1905. But the
35-year-old Mina had a will of iron and had resolved
to complete her beloved "Laddie's" groundbreaking
expedition to chart unknown territory across the peninsula from the North West River to Ungava
Bay. Personal loss compounded by public
criticism of her husband's credentials inspired
the mission. Mina's mistrust of Leonidas's
former adventure partner, Dillon Wallace, who
had vowed to complete the expedition that
same summer, added a fiercely competitive
edge to her undertaking. Intent on preserving
Leonidas's reputation, she recruited George
Elson, the native guide from the 1903 trip, to
lead her some 885 kilometres across Labrador.
The race was on.
top
Mina had just more than two months
to complete the trip. Her only chance
to return to civilization before winter
was to catch the Hudson's Bay Company steamer
Pelican at Ungava no later than the last week of
August. She hoped to gain an advantage by
setting out three weeks earlier than her husband
had and by travelling with a larger crew.
Elson was well acquainted with the errors of the
ill-fated expedition in 1903. Flawed local information
and maps had steered Leonidas off
course into a labyrinth of inland lakes. By the
time he and his crew realized the error, they
had been pushing upriver for two months and
were unable to retrace their path to the North
West River Post before Leonidas died of starvation
and exposure.
 |
| The chance to
share Labradors
mysteries and
her own story
with the wider
world fuelled
Minas resolve. |
 |
Mina and her guides left the post and
headed up the Naskapi River. During their
nine-week expedition through unmapped
territory, they battled the unrelenting Labrador
wilderness and its roaring rapids, violent storms
and endless swarms of blackflies, which, she
wrote, hit the tent roof and walls at night like
raindrops. The challenges were daunting for
even the most hardened frontier explorer, much
less a young city woman. Mina was seeing a
land that no white woman had travelled before,
and the chance to share its mysteries and her
story with the wider world fuelled her resolve.
The most demanding part of the journey was
the upstream push to Lake Michikamau. Dozens
of rapids had to be poled through or portaged
around. Some days, the crew covered less than
three kilometres. The canoes capsized on at least one occasion, leaving
the crew without essential
gear, including cooking
pans and axes.
With her revolver
or rifle in tow, Mina
frequently explored the
surrounding riverbanks
alone studying flowers
and taking photographs,
much to the consternation
of her guides.
She was inspired by the wilderness
and felt equal to the challenges it
presented. "Secretly I rather hoped a
bear would come along," she wrote in
her journal after one foray, "for I thought
I could manage him if he did not take
me unawares."
The George River descent from Lake
Michikamau was fast and with its share of
hair-raising moments. Nearly the entire river
north of Indian House Lake was an
interminable chain
of ferocious rapids.
"Immediately at the
outlet, the canoes were
caught by the swift
current, and for five days,
we were carried down
through almost
continuous rapids," she
wrote. "There were long
stretches of miles where
the slope of the riverbed
was a steep gradient, and I held my breath
as the canoe shot down at toboggan pace."
Despite the odds, the hardships and Mina's
own lack of wilderness experience, her
expedition reached the George River Post
at Ungava Bay one-and-one-half months
ahead of Wallace and on schedule for her
boat home. The achievement helped put
Labrador on the map and finally allowed
the memory of Mina's husband Leonidas to
rest in peace.
top
|
 |
|
Great Expectations
Mina Hubbard's expedition
is more an inspiration than
a blueprint for exploring
Newfoundland and Labrador.
With its sprawling landscapes,
unspoiled natural riches and
sparse population, the entire
province remains an ideal
destination for adventurers
who want to experience the
spirit of early 20th-century
Canadian adventure.
Torngat Mountains
The austere beauty of Labrador
offers a trip you will never
forget. The Torngat Mountains
are vast and breathtakingly
beautiful. This region is home to
the highest snow-capped peaks
in eastern Canada, majestically
towering above the fiords, and
encompasses much of the range
of Canada's eastern caribou
herds. Wolves, foxes and black
bears inhabit the interior, while
polar bears prowl the coastline.
Extremely remote, the
Torngat region offers an
unspoiled destination for the
handful of visitors, mostly
guided, who see it each
summer. For information on
guided backpacking trips,
visit
Nature Trek Canada or
Canada North Outfitting.
Both companies
provide a variety of trekking
packages, including day
excursions from base camp and
ambitious multi-day traverses.
Labrador Coast
If you want to visit Labrador without
the wilderness hardship, consider a
cruise up the Labrador coast. Arctic
Odysseys offers a 13-day cruise aboard
the Wanderbird, exploring fiords
whose walls soar 1,500 metres out
of the water. You'll scan the ocean
for whales, seals and icebergs and
see polar bears lounging along
the coast. You'll also have the
opportunity to explore the coastline
in a sea kayak.
For more information on
additional cruise operators, visit
cruisenewfoundland.com
Lewis Hills
Located in the southwestern part of
Newfoundland, the Lewis Hills are
the highest mountains on the island
and are far less explored than the
Long Range Mountains of Gros
Morne National Park. The Lewis Hills
have a similar feel to Labrador —
rugged mountains, sparkling
streams and abundant wildlife —
without the complex logistics of
visiting a remote region. That said,
this is a trip for experienced or
guided hikers, as the only access is
by foot. There are no marked trails,
and hikers must be completely self-sufficient.
Cormack Expeditions does sell
a map that details a suggested
55-kilometre traverse of the region,
and NewFound Outfitting offers guided trips.
|
|