Grisly weather in grizzly territory
The wind was howling and dark clouds hung low on the hills. I had just paddled through an area about 30 km long where a forest fire had recently devastated the land. It was shocking! An eerie gloom hung over the skeletal forest that remained with blackened trunks pointing at the sky. My mood was low enough without the dark clouds and high winds. Then it started raining. Yuck!
As the weather deteriorated (high winds and more rain) I found a miserable slough "owned" by a beaver — a muddy and gooey area with low alder. This little bit of awful real estate was prime bear country.
Loneliness and hopelessness just flooded through me. Home and family dominated my mind. I felt totally cut off from the living, from civilization.
"So this is the taste of adventure," I thought to myself, shaking. "It's more tasty from the perspective of a home fireplace and a mug of hot tea."
The rain and wind quickened. I dug out a tarp from my gear, covered my canoe and pulled it over me too. Then I lay down in the canoe with the tarp over top. Like a lullaby, the gently splattering of rain made me fall asleep in minutes. I woke up three quarters of an hour later and felt much better. It was still raining, but the wind had disappeared.
I set out again for the village of Carmacks, Y.T., 30 kilometres away downriver. The thought of hot showers and a hamburger drew me onwards through the cold rain that ran down my arms with each stroke.
When Carmacks finally drew in view, I almost yelped with glee!
That was a few days ago. Now the Yukon River is in full flood, and I'm clocking speeds of up to 18 kilometres per hour, hardly dipping my paddle. Consequently, there are few gravel bars to camp on. This makes camping a real challenge. And trying to land at a potential site can prove very difficult!
Two nights ago I paddled 67 kilometres (averaging 10 kilometres per hour) without seeing a single place to camp. Finally, my luck held and I found a great spot in an eddy. This made it easier to land. I set up my tent quickly, ate supper and fell asleep. Next morning I noticed the tree beside my tent (less than a metre away) had several long, deep claw marks from a bear. That was a bit exciting! This is definitely bear country — black as well as grizzly.
Yesterday a river guide advised me that Five Finger Rapids, because of the high flood rates, is swamping a number of canoes. The haystacks are as high as two metres, with lots of cross currents. Not nice. He advised me to portage around them, as some other people are doing. I was planning to run the rapids, but not two-metre-high waves. That's too dangerous when I'm alone. The water is icy.
Well I've just had a shower (was that an angel choir I heard singing?!) — my first cleaning in eight days of river travel — and I'm back on the river tomorrow alone again. The silence and tranquility are astonishing. I'm hoping to get to Yukon Crossing ghost town after running Rink Rapids. Now that I'm clean again I wonder if the mosquitoes will have more appetite. I've been bitten so far about 127 times.
When Yukoners talk about an air show, they mean something different than most other people.
This is such amazingly beautiful land. You haven't travelled Canada until you've seen the North!
Comments (13)
I remember the rain running down my sleeve every paddle stroke to Carmacks. Is it always like that there??
Did you clean the town out of chocolate bars as we did long ago?
You rock, Allen! I miss you tons, but I'm glad you're living your dream.
Love, your Denise
Submitted by Denise on Monday, July 09, 2012
wow. I got a bit of an adrenaline rush from some of that description and I am sitting on my soft chair back here in Ottawa. At 18 km an hour you will be able to tow a water skier. Denise is keeping track of your progress with map pins so we can all paddle along with you vicariously.
Submitted by geoffm on Monday, July 09, 2012
When you are unsure of something Allen, always remember "BEEZ VODKEE KNEE RAZ-BEER-YOASH"
Keep safe my friend and know that we are always thinking of you!
Submitted by Lloyd P. on Monday, July 09, 2012
Keep the stories coming! We're all right there with you.
Submitted by Chantal on Monday, July 09, 2012
Wow Allen, that's amazing! I'm just laying out your story in the summer issue of the magazine, and look forward to a follow-up for our readers when you return. Paddle your own canoe!
Dave :)
Publisher, Ottawa Outdoors
Outdoor Columnist, Ottawa Citizen
Submitted by Dave Brown on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Here's a Twitter comment from @bradwiffen: @CanGeoMag We're in Carmacks, passing through rapids tomorrow. Q for Allen: was it necessary to portage around Five Fingers?
Submitted by CG staff on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
How is that shoulder holding up? Shouldn't be much of an issue if you can sustain speeds of 18k without paddling. Maybe you should just float the rest of the journey and enjoy the sights. Love the photos, wish we could be there too. Keep up the blogging. I'll update the gang. Keep safe.
Submitted by Paul from the gym on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Hi Allen, keep your stories coming ! So interesting and a quick escape from the "every day life" when I read them.
Enjoy & Be careful.
Submitted by Isabelle J on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
You are making great progress Allen - we're tracking you here.
Don't forget to slurp that tea!
Submitted by Chris McQ on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
To @bradwiffen:
Allen may not get this in time to reply to you, but Yes, he did portage around Five Fingers. He was advised by a river guide that the present flow volume is swamping canoes--even those with spray skirts. So, he arranged with someone in Carmacks to truck his gear to Tatchun Creek, just north of the rapids.
Submitted by Denise on Tuesday, July 10, 2012
WOW! How exciting! Glad it's you and not me; somehow, sleeping on the ground beside a tree with bear claw marks and in the wind and rain is not my cup of tea. Continue to keep us updated as you "paddle your own canoe" in the Yukon! Take care!
Submitted by Joan BF on Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Hi Allen. Great stories and pics. Keep them coming and stay safe.
Submitted by Scott M. on Wednesday, July 11, 2012
There are many of us lesser mortals following your adventure, as demonstrated by the numerous comments. From misery to celebration, it's incredible what a hot shower can do for you. The loneliness will pass with the distance my friend. By passing the rapids was a wise move. Stay safe, stay focused and dry and return to us with enough stories to entertain, amaze and bewilder.
Submitted by John Dooley on Monday, July 16, 2012
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